Making Your Machine More Stable Through Turns

Start reassembly by mounting the lower A-arms. Torque the lower bolts according to the manufacturer's specifications. Cycle the A-arms up and down to again make sure there is no binding. Striction caused by a binding component can cause your suspension setup not to work properly. Follow up by doing the same with the upper A-arms.

The new A-arms also come with new ball joints. Install the lowers first and before you thread the bolt into the back of it, apply some Loctite to prevent it from coming loose later. Then install the upper ball joints-this time we did not use Loctite because it utilizes a Nylock nut to prevent backing off. With this style, we like to cinch down just as the threads go past the top of the nut.

Now that your ball joints are installed, pick up one of your spindles and newly supplied tie-rod ends. Make sure the locknuts are bottomed out as much as possible. Thread the tie-rod onto the end mounted on the steering stem. Then at the opposite end, thread the end mounted onto the spindle until it bottoms out. Now you can mount the spindle on the ball joints and attach the lower shock bolts.

Remove the remaining front brake lines from the master cylinder and frame. Since we're widening the front end, we opted to go with one of Streamline Brakes +2 dual front brake line kit. The new kit uses individual braided-steel hoses to mount on each caliper from the master cylinder. Install the lines on the master cylinder and run through the frame to the desired caliper.

Now that you have routed your brake lines where you want them to go, you can mount the calipers to the spindles. Again, torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specs. Then attach and tighten your new brake lines. Look around to make sure nothing will kink or get pinched when turning or going through the travel.

With new brake lines you have to bleed the brakes to get all of the air out. This procedure will take two people. One to pump the brakes five to six times and hold the lever in while the other cracks open the bleeder screw to let air escape. This must be done multiple times on each side, so make sure the reservoir is always full of fluid.

Now we're at a point where we can reinstall the front fenders, wheels, and our shiny, new brake line clamps. We're only a few simple steps from getting ready to ride.

The final step to install a front end is setting up the toe. This is done by setting the quad on all four wheels in a level area and getting the handlebar as straight as possible. We used a set of tiedowns to keep the bar from moving back and forth after it was done.

Since your tie-rods are run in all the way, the wheels will be sticking out on each side. Mark the top of each tie-rod with a marker as a reference point. Turn the tie-rods so the wheels are facing straight. Do each side in equal increments, and your tie-rod length should also be equal. Using a tape measure, check the distance between the rear centerline of the tire to the front and adjust as necessary. When all is said and done, the front tires should be toed in by 1/4 inch.

What's the next step? Go out and ride! Feel the difference in the handling of your machine. Dive into the corner knowing that you won't end up on your lid. Check back with us next month when you start looking for wide rear ends. Axles everyone... axles.