If you're anything like me, you will have compiled an endless wish list before your new ATV even touches dirt: stuff like a new pipe, cool graphics and gnarly new tires-anything to go faster, climb higher or just look better than your buddies is priority number one.Unfortunately, in our rush to accessorize, the simple yet most effective improvements in performance, such as suspension tuning and proper jetting, are easily overlooked. Two items that don't always cost hundreds of dollars can make noticeable differences. A little know-how can work wonders here.
We'll ignore jetting this time and just focus on suspension-an area in which most folks will admit they are in over their heads as soon as the subject is mentioned. So that means the suspension on a new machine is never given any attention and remains in the default (often Pogo-stick-like) factory settings. Why the horrendous settings? With an ATV manufacturer trying to accommodate such a wide range of different skill levels, weights and particular uses, they are forced to compromise and go with a middle ground setup. Good if you match that middle ground, but bad if you are like the rest of us and remain outside that narrow window of performance. Thus, it's left to the owner to make the necessary adjustments. Although the stock shocks on many of today's performance sport models are fully adjustable, don't be alarmed if you can't get them dialed to your exact specifications. There are other issues to be dealt with, such as valving and spring rates to reach the optimum setting.
Simply bolting on an aftermarket suspension component will not solve the problem either, although the systems are typically assembled to order with a rider's detailed information thrown into the equation to yield phenomenal results. And even after maxing out that Visa in the quest for suspension supremacy, those new XYZ shocks are still going to need some adjustment.
So whether your baby is sporting stock equipment or big-dollar boingers, spending an afternoon with this instructional aid, a spanner wrench and a flat-blade screwdriver should put you one step closer to world domination-or at least ahead of the pack at your next ATV outing.
Skill Level
Medium. Able to clean and oil air filter without spilling sticky oil all over garage.
Tools Required
Slotted (common, blade) screwdriver, Allen key (depending on your shocks), preload wrench or a dead blow hammer and a shock preload adjusting tool (looks like a heavy-duty screwdriver).
Time
2-3 hours, with some riding involved.
Summary
Most folks take a couple of hours to refine their settings. If you are wrench-challenged, maybe leave this for a professional.
Suspension Lingo
Whether you choose to pilot a thoroughbred racer or cruise the farm on your trusty pack mule makes no difference. You need to know and understand suspension terminology before you can unleash your machine's full potential and achieve the ride you desire.
Preload is the amount of tension placed on the spring to increase or decrease the stiffness of the shock; this is also used to achieve the machine's proper ride height.
Compression regulates the flow of the oil in the shock, which in turn, controls the amount of damping the shock provides.
Rebound is just as it sounds and controls the rate in which the shock returns to its full, upright position.
Valving refers to the orifice and valve stack through which the oil flows when the shock is being damped. This determines the amount of adjustment permitted by the compression adjustment. Oil movement generates heat, and heat diminishes performance, so the goal is to minimize oil movement while obtaining proper compression.
Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the frame at the footpeg and the ground. This height is greatly determined by the intended use of the quad (a flat track racer would seek a much lower ride height than that of a trail rider), but in stock form, extreme changes will not be possible.
Sag will be found in the form of free sag (free travel in the rear shock without a rider) and race sag (free travel in the rear shock with a rider aboard).
Rake is the angle of the centerline in the steering stem from the perpendicular of the center line of the front axle, measured in degrees.