In our October 2007 issue, we had just finished installing a set of wide A-arms on our Project YFZ450. To complement the width of the front end, we also received a rear axle from Leager Racing. Many people wonder: "Since the front of the quad is already wider after you do an A-arm install, will adding a wider axle really make that big of a difference?" Well, yes it does.

By keeping all four corners of the machine close to an equal width, there is less possibility of tipping over at high speeds, letting you corner faster. Also, if the rear end is narrower, the quad can be more prone to sliding. Aside from making your quad wider, aftermarket axles also offer more strength than their OEM counterparts. The metals used in the more expensive aftermarket units make them stronger to prevent bending and breaking under extreme use. This doesn't mean they won't break, just that it is less likely to happen.

The unit that we have chosen to install is adjustable from 0 through +3 inches. This makes it compatible for someone who wants to use it as a stock replacement or for cross-country or motocross racing. Read on to see how easily this modification can be done to your quad.

Note that use of an air impact gun makes parts of this install easier and more efficient.

Skill Level - Intermediate
Tools Required - Allen wrenches, flat-blade screwdrivers, large crescent wrench, impact wrench and sockets.
Time - About an hour, depending on how dirty or rusted the parts are.
Summary - A good handling mod that can easily be done in a few hours.

Although this is a semi-high-dollar item, the installation procedure is relatively easy. Just make sure that you take your time and work patiently. So why are you still sitting there? Get out and ride!

It's just around the corner. Your first trip out to the sand dunes in probably six months. That's the last time it was cool enough to go out and shred some sand. Where has your quad been since then? Stuffed away in the garage or still sitting in the trailer where you last parked it? I'm sure some of you're still waiting to get one of the new machines that are now starting to roll onto the showroom floor of your local dealers.

If you're waiting on your new ride or if you already have one that you haven't looked at in a while, it's OK. We've taken the time to contact some of the most well-respected names in the industry and picked their brains. We wanted to know what they recommended be done when getting ready to hit the dunes.

Sit back, take notes and prepare to be educated.

Allen Knowles, Owner, CT Racing
ATVR: Allen, thanks for taking the time to go over this with us. When you hear of people prepping machines to go out to the dunes, what comes to mind?
AK: Are we talking new or old machines?

ATVR: Let's start with new quads.
AK: If someone has just purchased a new four-stroke ATV and is an experienced rider, hold off on getting paddle tires. The new four-stroke ATVs are really strong and the radial knobby tires give excellent traction in all conditions. Running the stock tires allows you to slide the quad at will and throw a monster roost. Unless you're an inexperienced rider, you should have no problem getting up anything.

ATVR: That's a good tip. How about maintenance? Is there anything that absolutely needs to be done on either new or old machines?
AK: Well, many people neglect all of the pivot points of the quads. Before you head out to the dunes, take the time to clean and lubricate all of your A-arm, swingarm and linkage components. By doing this you can find worn-out parts while improving the overall ride of your machine.

ATVR: That's a great suggestion. My guess is while you're doing that, it would be a good idea to service your shocks if they're rebuildable. How about in the engine?
AK: It doesn't hurt to check the condition of the top end of both two- and four-stroke engines. You want there to be adequate compression or else your engine will not perform to its fullest potential.

ATVR: What are your recommendations for top end service intervals?
AK: Two-stroke top ends should be serviced every 40 to 50 hours. The newer high-performance four-strokes should be on that schedule as well. The older style four-strokes such as the 400EX, Warrior and the like can typically go 70 to 80 hours between servicing.

ATVR: When you say servicing you mean
AK: Replacing the piston, piston rings and hone or bore the cylinder as necessary.

ATVR: What about the valves on four-stroke machines?
AK: The valves should be checked after 20 hours of riding, and after 40 hours I recommend to pull the head and have a valve job done. Once you let the valves get too far out of adjustment, they sacrifice horsepower and do serious damage to the head.

ATVR: As far as airflow into the engine is concerned, do you have any preference on K&N style or foam filters?
AK: If you run foam filters, you have to have a fresh filter for every day that you're going to be riding. After a day of riding, sand will definitely find its way through a foam filter and into your engine. For dune riding I like running a K&N filter with an Outerwears cover. Those keep out sand much better.

ATVR: When it comes to fuel, what do you recommend? Pump or race gas?
AK: The best fuel to run is race fuel, but the downfall is that it's very expensive. The higher octane in the fuel helps the engine run much cooler which in turn prevents the loss of power. If you're completely against paying for race fuel and will only buy pump, purchase the highest octane possible. The 87-octane fuels just aren't good for the engines that are in quads these days. I'd say to at least run a 50/50 mix of good race fuel and high-octane pump fuel.

ATVR: That's the recommendation for stock machines. How about the people who are putting high-compression pistons in their engines or milling the heads of two-strokes?
AK: The pump fuel is OK for a stock four- or two-stroke engine. Once you start milling the head of a two-stroke or go higher than 11:1 compression on a four-stroke I wouldn't run anything less than the 50/50 at the very least.

ATVR: Finally, what is the absolute most necessary thing people need to do with their quads for a long life?
AK: Changing the oil and oil filter after every weekend ride along with the air filter are the best things they can do. The Honda TRX450R is the only quad that doesn't share the transmission oil with the engine oil. Every other quad on the market has a system that allows clutch material to mix in with the oil and go through the entire engine. All of that material is very abrasive and can lead to premature engine wear, and if your air filter passes dirt, that is just as bad. If you change these on a regular basis, you'll extend the life of your engine that much longer.

ATVR: Awesome tips, Al! Thanks for taking the time to help educate our readers. I'm sure they'll all appreciate it.

Loren Duncan, Owner, Duncan Racing International
ATVR: Loren, I appreciate your taking the time out of your busy day to give our readers this great information. When customers bring their ATVs to your shop for a preseason service, what are some of the most commonly neglected items you see?
LD: Lack of air filter maintenance, changing the oil and oil filter and the drive chain adjustment.

ATVR: What does a preseason service at your shop include?
LD: This will vary from shop to shop. At DRI we check over the machine from back to front. The ATV is inspected for any obvious loose, missing, bent or broken parts. This also includes missing cotter pins that sometimes are forgotten about. We also check and adjust the chain and all control cables, check valve clearance, adjust the cam chain, change the oil and oil filter, replace spark plugs and clean the air filter. To top all of this off, we do a test ride to make sure the machine is ready to go to the desert. This is a critical part of the service to us. You can start the machine up in the shop but there's no substitute for riding it to make sure that it runs good, the clutch works well and that it shifts properly.

If the customer complains about weak performance, we will also perform a leak-down test on four-strokes and compression test on two-strokes for an additional charge. Another thing we see quite often is people leaving the fuel from last season in the tank when they store their ATV. This can cause a ton of grief because the gas can go bad or dry up causing poor-running or clogged jets. This is when the tank and carburetor need to be removed for cleaning.

ATVR: That's a good bit of advice. What recommendations do you have for the people who say, "I don't ride that hard" and put off rebuilding the top ends of their engines? There's no doubt that sand riding puts a tremendous amount of stress on them.
LD: The best thing to do is keep track of the hours put on the motor, do regular services and a yearly leakdown test to gauge engine wear. We highly recommend the use of an hourmeter on all ATVs. There's some truth to the "I don't ride that hard" theory, but it still requires maintenance. If you take care of your engine, it will last much longer than if you don't.

ATVR: What kind of fuel do you recommend running and why?
LD: On engines that have 10:1 or less compression, we think high-octane pump fuel is just fine. With ratios of 11:1 a blend of 50/50 pump and race fuel and then with 12:1 and higher should run straight race fuel. We look at your engine as an athlete. The better food you feed it, the more reliable it is. Race fuel doesn't give you more power, but it does allow your engine to run cooler, more consistently and makes tuning that much easier. We steer clear of aviation fuels because they tend to make engines run hotter and are formulated for running at high altitudes where oxygen levels are low.

ATVR: For many people, the stock power of their machine is plenty. But what do you recommend for those who want that little extra edge?
LD: I recommend putting on high-quality components: exhausts, camshafts, air filter kits, etc. More and more people are getting taken advantage of by getting cheap imitations of poorly made products that are sold without any tech support. These items usually don't fit properly, perform poorly and break down more than ever before. Find an established company with a good track record and try to do all of your performance work in one place. When you mix and match parts, it's very difficult to get quality tech support.

ATVR: These are all great tips. Finally, what are the top five absolute must-do's before taking your quad out to the dunes?
LD: First, make sure your machine starts, idles and runs well and check to make sure the brakes work. Second, make sure that all the fluids are topped off: fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc. Third, check that the tires have air and can hold air. Fourth, make sure you have your whip and current registration. Fifth, finally make sure that your head and tailights work properly.

ATVR: Thank you again, Loren. I'm sure our readers will appreciate every word of this advice.

If you're anything like me, you will have compiled an endless wish list before your new ATV even touches dirt: stuff like a new pipe, cool graphics and gnarly new tires-anything to go faster, climb higher or just look better than your buddies is priority number one.Unfortunately, in our rush to accessorize, the simple yet most effective improvements in performance, such as suspension tuning and proper jetting, are easily overlooked. Two items that don't always cost hundreds of dollars can make noticeable differences. A little know-how can work wonders here.

We'll ignore jetting this time and just focus on suspension-an area in which most folks will admit they are in over their heads as soon as the subject is mentioned. So that means the suspension on a new machine is never given any attention and remains in the default (often Pogo-stick-like) factory settings. Why the horrendous settings? With an ATV manufacturer trying to accommodate such a wide range of different skill levels, weights and particular uses, they are forced to compromise and go with a middle ground setup. Good if you match that middle ground, but bad if you are like the rest of us and remain outside that narrow window of performance. Thus, it's left to the owner to make the necessary adjustments. Although the stock shocks on many of today's performance sport models are fully adjustable, don't be alarmed if you can't get them dialed to your exact specifications. There are other issues to be dealt with, such as valving and spring rates to reach the optimum setting.

Simply bolting on an aftermarket suspension component will not solve the problem either, although the systems are typically assembled to order with a rider's detailed information thrown into the equation to yield phenomenal results. And even after maxing out that Visa in the quest for suspension supremacy, those new XYZ shocks are still going to need some adjustment.

So whether your baby is sporting stock equipment or big-dollar boingers, spending an afternoon with this instructional aid, a spanner wrench and a flat-blade screwdriver should put you one step closer to world domination-or at least ahead of the pack at your next ATV outing.

Skill Level
Medium. Able to clean and oil air filter without spilling sticky oil all over garage.

Tools Required
Slotted (common, blade) screwdriver, Allen key (depending on your shocks), preload wrench or a dead blow hammer and a shock preload adjusting tool (looks like a heavy-duty screwdriver).

Time
2-3 hours, with some riding involved.

Summary
Most folks take a couple of hours to refine their settings. If you are wrench-challenged, maybe leave this for a professional.

Suspension Lingo
Whether you choose to pilot a thoroughbred racer or cruise the farm on your trusty pack mule makes no difference. You need to know and understand suspension terminology before you can unleash your machine's full potential and achieve the ride you desire.

Preload is the amount of tension placed on the spring to increase or decrease the stiffness of the shock; this is also used to achieve the machine's proper ride height.

Compression regulates the flow of the oil in the shock, which in turn, controls the amount of damping the shock provides.

Rebound is just as it sounds and controls the rate in which the shock returns to its full, upright position.

Valving refers to the orifice and valve stack through which the oil flows when the shock is being damped. This determines the amount of adjustment permitted by the compression adjustment. Oil movement generates heat, and heat diminishes performance, so the goal is to minimize oil movement while obtaining proper compression.

Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the frame at the footpeg and the ground. This height is greatly determined by the intended use of the quad (a flat track racer would seek a much lower ride height than that of a trail rider), but in stock form, extreme changes will not be possible.

Sag will be found in the form of free sag (free travel in the rear shock without a rider) and race sag (free travel in the rear shock with a rider aboard).

Rake is the angle of the centerline in the steering stem from the perpendicular of the center line of the front axle, measured in degrees.

1. Begin by lifting the rear of the machine completely off the ground and loosening the double lock rings until there is no pressure on the spring. At this point, there is no preload on the spring, and ride height is at its lowest possible position. Turning the adjusting ring out three to four complete rotations is a good starting point for a stock rear shock. This puts minimal preload and can typically soften a very stiff shock.

2. The next step is to determine the amount of free sag by measuring the distance from the ground to the grab bar in this raised position and then in its natural-state at-rest position. The difference in the two measurements should equal around 10 percent of the total of shock travel amount. For example, a shock with 10 inches of travel should provide around 1 inch of free sag. To increase the sag, simply reduce the spring tension, and add tension to the spring for less sag. Note: We did this with a single-shock sport model; an IRS model will require you modify the process, using Step 4 with these numbers.

3. Now, repeat this step with the rider (time to enlist a buddy to man the tape measure) on the machine to get the proper race sag. This should equal around one-third of the total shock travel. For the same shock with 10 inches of travel, this would equal 3.33 inches of sag. Race sag is more critical than the free sag, so adjust to achieve correct rider sag, even if this means slightly altering the free sag.

4. Done with the rear shock(s). The next step is to adjust the preload on the front shocks. This is done in the same manner as the rear, by lifting the machine off the ground and loosening the double locking rings. The front shocks must have identical settings for obvious reasons. So loosen the tension on the springs until they are both free-floating, and then count the complete turns of the locking rings when compressing. The goal here is to gain between level and a half inch of rake at the flat point of the frame just behind the rear A-arm mount and the ground over the height of the frame at the pegs. The sweet spot varies with each brand of machine due to a different center of gravity. A good rule to remember is that the more rake or the higher the frame at the front of the machine, the more traction there is at the rear (center of gravity is shifted toward the rear). This also lightens the front end, limiting the machine's ability to slide in turns, so you must determine the height that best suits your machine and riding style.

5. Adjusting the compression is the next step bringing us closer to smooth sailing. The compression adjustment is typically a screw or knob located at the top of the shock or on the nitrogen reservoir (never at the shaft end of the shock). Rotating the screw clockwise adds compression or stiffens the shock and vice versa. You want to adjust the compression to allow full use of the shock travel, while preventing the shock from bottoming. It is inevitable that you will, on occasion, bottom out your shocks, so don't panic; it shows that you are using the full range of travel that the shock provides. However, if bottoming is common, the compression is too soft and needs further adjustment.

6. The ride height is set and compression is adjusted, so now it's time to address the rebound. At the shock's shaft end you will find a collar or screw that controls the speed at which the shock returns to its extended position. This works similarly to the compression screw; clockwise (turn in) speeds up rebound and counterclockwise (turn out) slows rebound. Too fast a rebound makes the shock return out like a pogo-often with a violent punch. Conversely, if the rebound is too slow, the shock won't have adequate time to return, causing the shock to pack up. This is most noticeable in a series of whoops or a rock garden, where multiple impacts occur immediately after one another. Each time the shock compresses, it moves too slowly to fully extend, and the travel becomes shorter and shorter, eventually resulting in no suspension and a thud of kick as it ricochets off the next obstacle. The trick is finding the spot at which it's neither too fast nor slow, but just right. It won't be as easy as Goldilocks finding the perfect bed, but along the same lines. Starting close to the stock position is good, but experiment with two to three clicks at a time to see what works for you.

Maybe you just received that bitchin' new long-travel front end or just happen to be in the process of replacing an A-arm that miraculously got wrapped around a tree. Whatever the reason, without proper setup, your suspension could possibly end up resembling something from "The Flintstones." To get you started and headed in the right direction, we need to tackle the front end's toe and camber. If you're wondering, "What the heck is that, and how does it affect me?" here's a simple description. Unlike the rear tires, the front shouldn't be perpendicular to the ground or parallel. The tires, when properly adjusted, will be slightly angled inward (toe-as in pigeon-toed) and tilted toward the machine (camber). The degree of these angles will vary depending on your intended use, but the tuning process remains the same.

It's not unheard of to find a new machine that's in need of adjustment, and most improperly aligned tires will go unnoticed without a thorough examination. Simply replacing a worn ball joint or swapping a bent tie-rod will also require further inspection. This is most obvious when you're cruising along in a straight line and your handlebar is pointed toward your buddy riding beside you. Keep in mind when making these alterations that a seemingly minor turn of the nut results in major movement of the tire.

While the automotive industry deals with these same issues using sophisticated machinery and lasers to precisely measure and calculate correct angles, there are other not-so-complex methods you can use to accomplish this feat on your ATV without the high-tech gadgets. The guys at DeRisi Racing took time to reveal these secrets to us in their shop.

First off, you'll need these tools:
. Basic metric wrench set
. Tape measure
. 2-foot level
. Straightedge
. Two tiedowns

1. More than likely, you won't be beginning with an extreme mess as we have here, but we wanted to clearly demonstrate the simplicity of the process. Follow along and learn how to transform this disaster (figure A) into this corner carver (figure B) with complete confidence.

2. Begin by positioning the ATV on a level surface and strapping the bar on both sides to keep it perfectly straight and in the proper position before making any adjustments.

3. Use a long straightedge (Santo's crew prefers a lightweight aluminum bar available from your local home center) positioned firmly against the back wheel extended to the front, which will be used as a measuring point.

4. The toe-in should be between 1/4 to 3/8 inch. This is the difference between the distance of the tires at its foremost and rearmost points. For example: With a center-to-center measurement at the rear of the tire of 43 inches, the same measurement at the front should be 42 3/4 inches for a 1/4-inch total toe-in. The measurement from your straightedge should correspond by achieving half this amount of toe (half because the total is split between the two tires). With the straightedge against the rear of the tire, measure the gap between the front and the straightedge; it should be roughly 1/8 inch.

5. The tie-rods link the steering stem flag to the spindles. The lengths of the tie-rods are adjustable via threaded ends. By increasing or decreasing the length of a tie-rod, you turn the tire to reach your desired measurement from the straightedge.

6. To adjust the tie-rods, first loosen the two nuts at each end of the rods. One will be standard and the other reverse-threaded; turn them several rotations to allow plenty of room for adjustment.

7. Tie-rods have a square edge at one point, allowing it to be turned with a wrench. Simply turn this rod until your tires reach the correct position. Once you have obtained the desired toe on both tires, leave the nuts loose for making slight adjustments after the camber is set. If the camber doesn't require adjustment, tighten down the locking nuts and go ride.

8. It is now time to tweak the camber and get the tires leaning to the correct degree. For a stock machine or a woods racer, 3 to 4.5 degrees are preferred. If you are extending the A-arms for MX or desert use, contact the manufacturer of the components for suggested camber and continue with the following instructions, but using the recommended measurements. A standard 2-foot level will be needed to continue.

9. Setting the camber is a similar process to adjusting the toe, except we will be moving the wheels vertically instead of on a horizontal plane. Begin by placing the level against the tire, keeping the level true (the ball centered). How far off the camber is will determine where the level rests against the tire. In an extreme case like ours, the level could possibly be touching the top of the sidewall when perfectly vertical.

10. You will need to measure the distance between the level and the sidewall at the top of the tire (similar to measuring for the toe adjustment). For 3 to 4.5 degrees, this measurement should be between 1/8 and 1/4 inch.

11. You will be adjusting the camber where the ball joint adjoins the upper A-arm. Threading the ball joint into the A-arm (toward the wheel) or retracting it (away from the wheel) moves the angle outward or inward, respectively. You will need to loosen the lock nut on the ball joint before adjusting.

12. Depending on the brand of A-arms, you may be required to remove the ball joint from the spindle to make an adjustment. Naturally, we are using DeRisi A-arms, which don't require removing the ball joint for adjustments. They have a mechanism that rotates and shifts the ball joint in or out to the desired position. Once the proper camber angle is achieved, tighten the lock nut and recheck the toe. It may need a minor tweak at this point. To finish up, double-check that all the lock nuts on the tie-rods and ball joints are secure, then put on your helmet. It's time for a test ride!

Whether your new quad is fresh from the factory or out of someone's garage, the chances of its suspension being set up correctly for you is pretty slim. After a bit of riding you may even have noticed things are not perfect. Yet like most of us, you probably just ride it as is without adjusting anything. There is a lot to be gained by maximizing the performance of your quad's suspension. Most folks long for cool, expensive aftermarket stuff but never tune the oft capable stock parts they already own.

Haven't a clue where to begin? This guide should help you identify what adjustments are available and get you going in the right direction.

There are six types of external adjustments available on current shocks: low- and high-speed compression damping (on high-end shocks), rebound damping, preload adjustment, ride-height adjustment and crossover spacers. However, you will not find all of them on a single shock. Preload, low-speed compression and rebound are the most commonly found on production ATV shocks.

Preload
This is the spring-tension adjustment on most shocks. On utility vehicles' shocks and even some sport quads' front ends, this is your only means of compression adjustment. You can either add more spring pressure to stiffen up your suspension or back it off to get a plusher ride. Many shocks have a collar with several slots; turning it changes the spring pressure or amount of preload. Put the ATVon a stand so the wheels are off the ground: This allows the collars to turn more easily. A large set of channel locks makes this job simple. Wrapping a rag around the collar before you put a clamp on it will prevent you from scratching the finish.

The other common form of preload adjustment is double locking rings. After loosening the lock ring or nut, you simply turn the adjuster ring (the nut that is against the spring) to make a change then tighten the locknut. There are special tools made to loosen and spin these types of locknuts, but a hammer and punch work fine. The trick is to place your ATV on a stand and get the wheel off the ground, then break loose the locknut with the hammer and punch. Instead of using the punch to spin the preload nut, try spinning the spring with your hand.

Another type of preload adjuster is commonly found on Works Performance shocks, PEP front units and the older-style TCS equipment. It is a wire clip that slides into a groove in the shock body; you simply move the clip up or down in the grooves to change the load. Sometimes you can just pull on the spring to release the tension enough to move the clip; in most cases, the load is too stiff to do so. To change the tension, a large open-end 21mm or 13⁄16 wrench works well. Note: Make sure your wrench is free of burrs that may mar the shock shaft. Use a rat-tail file to deburr the open end of the wrench if needed. Again with the quad on a stand and possibly some extra help, slip the wrench through the spring and around the shock shaft near the shock body. Now holding the wrench in place (a job for your help), you spin the spring, taking the load off the shock. This allows you to move the preload clip.

If you have an ATV with only preload adjustment in the form of the slotted collar, all you can do is try different settings to make the ride more comfortable. Don't be afraid to make a change.

Race sag is another overlooked aspect--it's basically preload. If you have a single-spring rear shock setup, 30 percent of the total travel should be used in sag. Sag is the difference between an unloaded suspension and that with you sitting on your quad. The measurement should be taken at the rear axle. For an ATVwith 9 inches of rear-wheel travel, the sag should be 3 inches. You would also want about 10 percent free or static sag. That is the difference between your quad's normal rest position and that with no load at all--you can lift up on the grab bar and extend the suspension or put the machine on a stand to get this measurement. On an ATV with 9 inches of travel, it is just less than an inch. If you are too heavy for the spring rate, you will have to crank in so much preload to get the 3 inches of race sag that you'll end up without any free sag: The only solution is a stiffer spring. Conversely, if you are too light and unable to get the 30 percent race sag with 10 percent static sag, a lighter spring is needed.

Compression
Com-pression is the damping that helps to prevent the shock from bottoming. Too much compression can also make the suspension feel harsh. It is the easiest and most-used form of adjustment; the average rider should know if he is using all of the suspension travel he needs to crank in some compression damping. If the travel is too harsh, back off the adjustment.

The compression-damping adjuster is in the form of a knob or screw on the shock reservoir or the body of the shock; it will always be on the big end of the shock, never the shaft end. The adjustment found on most production shocks is a low-speed compression adjustment; it helps in the small bumps, G-outs and braking bumps but does not have a huge effect on big jumps. Most shocks use a needle valve. To find out if you have the needle type of adjuster, screw it all the way in until it stops. If it will stop turning, it is the needle type. Turning the adjuster (with a screwdriver) clockwise tightens or stiffens; counterclockwise loosens or softens. The adjuster is connected to the needle valve--which works by regulating the oil flow. With this type of adjuster, it is best not to screw it in all the way and leave it there: This could result in a bent shock shaft. You should always back it out at least two clicks.

The other form of adjuster has orifices, so there will be a set number of adjustments and it won't stop turning. Custom Axis shocks, for example, have eight adjustment settings. There is a mark on the reservoir that you align with a number on the knob. The higher the number, the stiffer the adjustment. Unlike the needle-valve system, the dial type can be used on the stiffest setting.

The basic rule of thumb is to use the minimum amount of compression adjustment that suits the track you are riding. With the compression knob out or on the lowest setting possible, the quad will have better oil flow, keeping the shock and oil cooler. The tires will also stay on the ground more in the small braking bumps, ensuring better braking.

Rebound
Rebound controls how fast the shock returns to the "up" position and is probably the least-used form of adjustment for the recreation rider but may be the most important in making your ATV do what you want it to do. If you have too fast a setting, the shock can kick you as you leave jumps or whoops; too slow, and the shock can "pack up" as you go through whoops. Packing up occurs when the shock doesn't have enough time to fully extend before becoming compressed again on a successive bump. After several bumps in a row, you may be left with almost no suspension travel. The symptom is your ATV kicks from side to side, acting as if it wants to deposit you on the ground. A proper rebound setting will allow you to ride through a section faster than you thought possible. If you have a fast rebound setting and the shock still acts as though it's packing up, try going in with the compression adjuster a few clicks: This will take away some of the working travel in whoops, so the shock has less tendency to pack up. The rebound adjuster is found near the bottom of the shock on the shaft end. We don't know of any factory front shocks that have it, but it can be found on most performance quads' rear shocks. It is either a screw adjuster or a collar that spins near the bottom of the shock shaft.

Ride-Height Adjustment
Ride-height-adjustable (RHA) shocks--PEP ZPS, TCS Sag Control System, Custom Axis, Elka and Works Perfor-mance all offer some form of them--have virtually no preload. On RHA shocks, stiffening or softening the ride simply raises or lowers your quad. RHA shocks have from two to as many as four separate springs; the commonality is they will have one soft spring that retains some pressure on shock clips to keep slight tension on them. There are many different ways to change the adjustment depending on the manufacturer, but that is out of the scope of this story.

Crossover Spacers
These are the spacers between the small springs on a multispring shock. Works Performance, PEP, TCS, Custom Axis and Elka use this arrangement on some of their shocks. The idea is to make the shock more progressive in spring rate. The main spring will be your stiffest spring rate; you will have one, two or even three short springs that are softer. The spacers are essentially large washers that prevent the spring stack from collapsing in on itself like a telescope. Changing the number of spacers between springs allows you to fine-tune the overall progressiveness of the spring rate. Spacers are put inside the small spring, so you have the soft spring rate for a portion of the travel, then it bottoms on the crossover spacer and goes into the next stiffer spring. Having the ability to change crossover spacers to stiffen or soften the spring rate can be beneficial.

Looking Ahead
External high-speed adjustment is not found on production ATV shocks at this time. It is available on most performance motocross rear shocks and is beginning to show up on high-end aftermarket ATV shocks. We would expect to see it in the near future on performance production ATVs as it gives a much larger range of adjustment. High-speed adjuster-equipped shocks can be identified by the reservoir having an inner and outer screw or adjuster nut arrangement. The high-speed compression can be used to prevent bottoming off big jumps or large hits. You don't need to be concerned with backing it off for better oil flow as you do with a low-speed knob. However, cranking in too much adjustment will give you a harsh ride through the medium stuff.

When all is said and done, you can't get the maximum performance from what you have without trying. Make some changes, pay attention to the differences and keep adjusting as needed. You'll end up with a better setup. Remember: You can always go back to the original settings.

One of the more-difficult types of terrain to master is whoop sections. Each set of whoops is different--you can even hit the same section a dozen times, and each time it could be an entirely different experience. To help guide you through the proper way to attack them, we spoke with Team Suzuki/Yoshimura factory rider William Yokley. Yokley has seen his fair share of whoops in all shapes and sizes throughout his distinguished GNCC and Baja racing careers, and he pounds through those rippin' rhythm sections like a champ!

Editor's note: Before you attack whoops at speed, you should hit them at a conservative pace. It's not a smart idea to just carelessly blast over whoop sections without rolling through them first. Look at the approach and downslope of each one, the distance between the rollers and other features. Not until you have thoroughly studied the whoops should you approach them with any sort of speed.

Notice how Yokley positions his body toward the rear of his Suzuki as he skims over the top of the whoops. By keeping his body weighted to the rear of the quad and staying on the throttle, he is able to keep the front end light. As the rear suspension compresses, you can see how he has transitioned his weight to the middle of the machine, thus adjusting his attack position to keep the ATV level. As he moves his weight off the rear of the machine, he is better able to maneuver it around as necessary. When he wants to drive hard off the edge of a whoop, Yokley squats down on the rear of the machine again and drives it forward using an even amount of throttle.

Yokley's Secret Whoop Tips

"There are few other obstacles that can toss you on your head faster than a gnarly set of whoops, so be careful," Yokley warns. "Ride smart, and don't get in over your head. It's best to start out slowly and build up speed as your skills develop. Here are a few tips I've learned throughout my career that have helped me get through whoops as effectively as possible."

1. First and foremost, preride the whoop sections before hitting them at speed!

2. When hitting whoops for the first time, be totally aware of what is ahead at all times. I like to glance several whoops ahead to prep myself for what's coming next.

3. Your goal is to skim or glide over the top of the whoops while keeping the quad as level as possible. You don't want to roll into the transitions between the whoops--that will only slow you down.

4. I keep my weight mostly toward the back of the machine, but I try and keep my butt off the seat so I can remain in the attack position as much as possible. You may need to shift back and forth between the front and back of the quad to keep it level while transferring between whoops.

5. If you shift all your weight to the back and keep it there, you can bottom out the shock. If that happens, the rear suspension won't be able to react properly and the shock might pack and buck you. Make sure you move freely with the quad as it skims the tops of the whoops.

6. Always have a good grasp on the handlebar--you don't want to roll into a tough whoop section only to lose your grip!

7. If you find that you're getting out of shape and the quad is starting to swap sideways or is generally getting out of control, either you need to apply some throttle to get it back in line or you may need to get on the brakes and slow down. Unfor-tunately, it's very hard to give a textbook answer here--each whoop section is different, and every ride through it could give you different results. Ultimately, you have to judge the situation, and the only way you'll be able to do so is by having plenty of experience (which means you have to practice quite a bit!).