That view was not a marked overlook on a map, nor did the trail we took to the top appear as more than a ribbon of dotted lines buried in 1.2 million acres of open country. Standing atop that nameless mountain, I understood why Brown and his club are fighting to keep this area open yet are not terribly eager to create the next Hatfield-McCoy or Paiute Trail System. Those well-marked, easily accessible places are fantastic moneymakers for the region, offer great riding and make it easy for just about anyone to enjoy the sport. As for me, I'm happy to stand atop an unknown mountain at the end of an unmarked trail, drink the pine-scented air of the Black Hills and take in a small slice of Wild Bill Hickok's world.
| Place visited | Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota |
| Riding season | Year-round |
| Maps recommended | Black Hills National Forest map (USDA Forest Service map) |
| Area information | South Dakota Department of Tourism, 800/732-5682; Black Hills National Forest, 605/673-9200; Wyoming State Trails Program, 877/996-7275 |
| Permits/licenses required | No permit necessary on South Dakota side of national forest; Wyoming requires a state ORV permit |
| Critters | Whitetail deer, mule deer, eagles, black bears |
| While you are there | Hiking, hunting, fishing, Crazy Horse National Monument, Mount Rushmore |
| Road trip CD | Haley Bonar, "The Size of Planets" |
| Best local beer | Fat Tire Amber Ale |
| Digs | Nemo Guest Ranch, 605/578-2708, www.nemoguestranch.com |
| Local ATV club | Off-Road Riders Association, 605/343-8452, offroadriders@ |
| | rushmore.com, offroadriders.org |
| Good eats | Jake's, Deadwood, SD; Moonshine Gulch, Rochford, SD |
| Useful links | www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills, www.blackhills.com |
| Category | Rating | Comments |
| Quality of riding | 8.5 | Lots of elevation changes, trails vary from open two-track to snaking little paths with very challenging hillclimbs |
| Scenery | 9.2 | Pine forest, granite bluffs, great overlooks, pristine streams and lakes |
| Food | 7.5 | Good burgers in Rochford and decent buffets in Deadwood |
| Accommodations | 8.2 | Economical little family-owned cabins and chain hotels in larger towns |
| Cultural experience | 8.0 | Lots of Wild West history in a place that still has a frontier feel |
| Overall rating | 8.3 | Vast, scenic, remote and gorgeous riding experience in the land of Wild Bill Hickok |